General Rat Care
Introductions
We handle and introduce our babies after their eyes open to other rats as often as possible, so they should be great with socializing and used to being held. Rats are not like other rodents and do not generally need time to “get use to their cage”. In my experience - this causes undue stress given that they are in a new home, with new people, smells, sounds, new cage, etc... YOU are part of their “environment”. You should immediately start holding them for short periods of time at least, to get them use to you as well as their cage and everything else.
Rats are extremely social creatures and require at least one cagemate that will provide affection that you simply cannot.. in forms of grooming, snuggling, rough housing, not to mention speaking in decibels that we cannot hear as humans. They are also pack animals that live in a hierarchy.. which means (among many things) that they react off of eachother which can be very beneficial during the “homecoming phase”.
If you have other rats, we would suggest setting up a neutral area where you can introduce the rats to see how they interact with each other. A good sign that your introductions are going well is playing, or grooming each other. There may be dominance demonstrations including posturing – where they stand up and kind of “box” with each other, or kicking with their back legs. This is completely normal and should not be interrupted unless you hear screaming, see your rats “puff up”, or stand side-ways in a defensive-way towards each other.
Your new rat(s) will probably sneeze a bit when introduced to their new habitat. This is completely normal as they have very sensitive noses.
Food & Treats
We personally currently use Mazuri food. Ordered online it is about 1.20$ per pound including shipping (also found locally at most farmer co-ops and pet feed stores that offer Purina brands for about half this price). Oxbow is another good choice but you’re usually going to pay about double the weight. Kent lab blocks are great as well if you can find it at an animal feed store near you, a 50lb bag costing only 10-15$. Other brands with too many seeds and dried fruits are not recommended. Seeds and most dog foods are oily and will cause their cage odor to increase significantly, and should not be given as as their main diet. They enjoy a wide variety of treats, veggies, and fruits as an added supplement. You will find it fun to try different things with them.
We also add Apple Cider Vinegar to their water bottles. This promotes good health as well as changes their body chemistry slightly to lessen the smell of urine. Dose is about 4 drops of Apple Cider Vinegar per 8oz of water.
Caging & Bedding
We would not recommend anything smaller than the You & Me Merry Manor Rat Home, available from Petco. This is a great starter cage and is usually on sale for $53 almost every month. These can also be combined side-by-side for a much larger cage if needed. The Critter Nation is definitely a better cage, however much pricier (usually about $200 for a double).
You can use this calculator from Ratty Corner as a basic guideline to see if the cage you have/want will be adequate for the rats. Make sure to adjust the measurement as needed. http://www.rattycorner.com/odds/calc.shtml
We use the hanging bird dishes that fit onto the side of the cage – and keep these on the top level of the cages to ensure that no urine drips into them. We also use homemade hoppers.
We personally use Fleece and baskets etc for hammocks, and Aspen for bedding. Cedar should not be used for various health reasons. Other types of acceptable bedding are anything paper-based, paper shreds, newspaper, etc.. As well as kiln-dried pine. We purchase the $1-$3 fleece throws from Walmart and cut them as needed for all hammocks and/or floor covers. We use the super cheap metal “pear shaped” shower curtain rings to attach them to the cage. Just keep in mind that not all bedding and brands are created equal.
Playtime & Toys
Rats love to be let out of their cage for “free roam” time. You can set up a play area or room. We usually let them run and play on the couch while we watch TV, etc. This is a great time to bond with your pet and teach them tricks etc.
We generally do not purchase a lot of “toys” for our rats as they usually do not use them. However, they love to explore so an alternate to toys would be baskets, tunnels, boxes, perches, etc. a lot of which you can actually purchase at the dollar store.
Health
It is a good idea to always keep antibiotics on hand when housing rats. Rats have Mycoplasmosis which sometimes causes “Myco flare ups” which can lead to Upper Respiratory Infections (URI). If left untreated – this can cause pneumonia and even death. Symptoms are continuous sneezing, congestion, lethargy, labored breating, and eyes/nose discharge.
We personally purchase “Fish Mox” online. It is a basic Amoxicillin in a capsule form. We purchase 250mg tablets, and mix with Ensure, scrambled eggs, etc.
Cleaning
We personally use a ½ White Vinegar ½ Water mixture for cleaning. The vinegar is great for immediately removing the “stickiness” of their urine from cage bars and flooring. The aspen bedding we use is amazing for absorbing urine and feces smell, without clumping or molding.
We usually spot clean and then thoroughly clean the cages each once a week. This promotes good health as well as keeping any smells down. Rats are extremely clean animals, constantly bathing themselves – however, their bathroom habits do tend to have a certain smell if not kept up with.
Rats can secrete an oil/dandruff that usually has a reddish/orangey tint called Buck Grease (Bucks more-so than Does) – you might see this on hammocks etc. This comes cleans very easily with some vinegar and/or hot water.
Be sure during all cleaning and laundry, to not use anything with an overwhelming scent afterward. This could aggravate their sensitive systems.
Bathing
As mentioned several times above, rats constantly clean themselves and generally do not need a “bath”. However, their tails do get dirty and become “patchy” looking if not cleaned.
We usually fill the sink with shallow warm water and let them sit in it, or hold them so that only their tails are submerged. Surprisingly their tails usually become clean almost immediately… scrubbing is usually not needed. Bath time can be very stressful for your rat, so please always stay observant of your pet. If bath time is too stressful, you can try a warm cloth, baby wipes, baby toothbrush, etc. Or even some all natural coconut oil. As mentioned above, if you’re having odor control issues.. please look into other remedies. Try a different food, bedding, ACV or Vanilla in their water, Air flow, air purifier, etc. Rats are VERY clean.. and if there is an odor - it can be environmental.
We handle and introduce our babies after their eyes open to other rats as often as possible, so they should be great with socializing and used to being held. Rats are not like other rodents and do not generally need time to “get use to their cage”. In my experience - this causes undue stress given that they are in a new home, with new people, smells, sounds, new cage, etc... YOU are part of their “environment”. You should immediately start holding them for short periods of time at least, to get them use to you as well as their cage and everything else.
Rats are extremely social creatures and require at least one cagemate that will provide affection that you simply cannot.. in forms of grooming, snuggling, rough housing, not to mention speaking in decibels that we cannot hear as humans. They are also pack animals that live in a hierarchy.. which means (among many things) that they react off of eachother which can be very beneficial during the “homecoming phase”.
If you have other rats, we would suggest setting up a neutral area where you can introduce the rats to see how they interact with each other. A good sign that your introductions are going well is playing, or grooming each other. There may be dominance demonstrations including posturing – where they stand up and kind of “box” with each other, or kicking with their back legs. This is completely normal and should not be interrupted unless you hear screaming, see your rats “puff up”, or stand side-ways in a defensive-way towards each other.
Your new rat(s) will probably sneeze a bit when introduced to their new habitat. This is completely normal as they have very sensitive noses.
Food & Treats
We personally currently use Mazuri food. Ordered online it is about 1.20$ per pound including shipping (also found locally at most farmer co-ops and pet feed stores that offer Purina brands for about half this price). Oxbow is another good choice but you’re usually going to pay about double the weight. Kent lab blocks are great as well if you can find it at an animal feed store near you, a 50lb bag costing only 10-15$. Other brands with too many seeds and dried fruits are not recommended. Seeds and most dog foods are oily and will cause their cage odor to increase significantly, and should not be given as as their main diet. They enjoy a wide variety of treats, veggies, and fruits as an added supplement. You will find it fun to try different things with them.
We also add Apple Cider Vinegar to their water bottles. This promotes good health as well as changes their body chemistry slightly to lessen the smell of urine. Dose is about 4 drops of Apple Cider Vinegar per 8oz of water.
Caging & Bedding
We would not recommend anything smaller than the You & Me Merry Manor Rat Home, available from Petco. This is a great starter cage and is usually on sale for $53 almost every month. These can also be combined side-by-side for a much larger cage if needed. The Critter Nation is definitely a better cage, however much pricier (usually about $200 for a double).
You can use this calculator from Ratty Corner as a basic guideline to see if the cage you have/want will be adequate for the rats. Make sure to adjust the measurement as needed. http://www.rattycorner.com/odds/calc.shtml
We use the hanging bird dishes that fit onto the side of the cage – and keep these on the top level of the cages to ensure that no urine drips into them. We also use homemade hoppers.
We personally use Fleece and baskets etc for hammocks, and Aspen for bedding. Cedar should not be used for various health reasons. Other types of acceptable bedding are anything paper-based, paper shreds, newspaper, etc.. As well as kiln-dried pine. We purchase the $1-$3 fleece throws from Walmart and cut them as needed for all hammocks and/or floor covers. We use the super cheap metal “pear shaped” shower curtain rings to attach them to the cage. Just keep in mind that not all bedding and brands are created equal.
Playtime & Toys
Rats love to be let out of their cage for “free roam” time. You can set up a play area or room. We usually let them run and play on the couch while we watch TV, etc. This is a great time to bond with your pet and teach them tricks etc.
We generally do not purchase a lot of “toys” for our rats as they usually do not use them. However, they love to explore so an alternate to toys would be baskets, tunnels, boxes, perches, etc. a lot of which you can actually purchase at the dollar store.
Health
It is a good idea to always keep antibiotics on hand when housing rats. Rats have Mycoplasmosis which sometimes causes “Myco flare ups” which can lead to Upper Respiratory Infections (URI). If left untreated – this can cause pneumonia and even death. Symptoms are continuous sneezing, congestion, lethargy, labored breating, and eyes/nose discharge.
We personally purchase “Fish Mox” online. It is a basic Amoxicillin in a capsule form. We purchase 250mg tablets, and mix with Ensure, scrambled eggs, etc.
Cleaning
We personally use a ½ White Vinegar ½ Water mixture for cleaning. The vinegar is great for immediately removing the “stickiness” of their urine from cage bars and flooring. The aspen bedding we use is amazing for absorbing urine and feces smell, without clumping or molding.
We usually spot clean and then thoroughly clean the cages each once a week. This promotes good health as well as keeping any smells down. Rats are extremely clean animals, constantly bathing themselves – however, their bathroom habits do tend to have a certain smell if not kept up with.
Rats can secrete an oil/dandruff that usually has a reddish/orangey tint called Buck Grease (Bucks more-so than Does) – you might see this on hammocks etc. This comes cleans very easily with some vinegar and/or hot water.
Be sure during all cleaning and laundry, to not use anything with an overwhelming scent afterward. This could aggravate their sensitive systems.
Bathing
As mentioned several times above, rats constantly clean themselves and generally do not need a “bath”. However, their tails do get dirty and become “patchy” looking if not cleaned.
We usually fill the sink with shallow warm water and let them sit in it, or hold them so that only their tails are submerged. Surprisingly their tails usually become clean almost immediately… scrubbing is usually not needed. Bath time can be very stressful for your rat, so please always stay observant of your pet. If bath time is too stressful, you can try a warm cloth, baby wipes, baby toothbrush, etc. Or even some all natural coconut oil. As mentioned above, if you’re having odor control issues.. please look into other remedies. Try a different food, bedding, ACV or Vanilla in their water, Air flow, air purifier, etc. Rats are VERY clean.. and if there is an odor - it can be environmental.